Marco Verdi is a seasoned IT strategist with over 15 years of experience in digital transformation and cybersecurity.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.
“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.
Marco Verdi is a seasoned IT strategist with over 15 years of experience in digital transformation and cybersecurity.